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Look 1/51 MM6 Maison Margiela FALL 2025 READY-TO-WEAR
Umberto Fratini /
Things are calming down at Maison Margiela. This past year saw John Galliano step down as creative director in December, with Diesel’s Glenn Martens stepping in to reinstate the role. As the house’s mainline finds a more comfortable, refined, and structured rhythm under his direction, that same sentiment echoed through its side label, MM6, at yesterday’s runway show in Milan.
For MM6’s FW25 show, which was guest directed by Pitti Uomo, its refined taste and reverence set the tone. While many collections thrive on grand concepts, MM6 honed in on the essence of a core wardrobe. The pieces weren’t just wearable, they were elevated, with "clothing hanger" shoulder cushions emphasizing the precision of sharply tailored suiting and almost comical wide shoulder pads. Silhouettes played with proportion, featuring expanded backs, oversized tops, and a gradual tapering toward the hem. Though structure was a key element, the styling leaned into a slouchy, lived-in feel—evoking the look of someone who has weathered a day of sweat and determination on their way to work.
MM6 Fall/Winter 2025 READY-TO-WEAR
Umberto Fratini /
Subversive workwear has been having a moment, its presence growing stronger since Miu Miu’s 2023 office siren revival. But for MM6’s FW25 collection, the concept was stripped of any overt seduction and reimagined with a masculine, no-frills attitude—less coquette, more power player. The collection read like the wardrobe of a financier who moves seamlessly from boardroom to after-hours indulgence. Leather and fur were blown up to dramatic proportions, while button-up polos—typically crisp and corporate—were inflated to the extreme, challenging the rigidity of traditional office attire.
Yet, a quiet sensuality whispered beneath the structure. Sheer shirts peeked from under razor-sharp suiting, raw-cut edges disrupted classic tailoring and ultra-thin felt linings traced the hems of skirts, almost like a hidden signature. The collection seemed to build from a foundation of second-skin dressing, layering, deconstructing, and reconstructing—a study in power, ease, and the art of controlled rebellion.
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